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RH2004 Season: A Few Words on Setups
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When developing a new setup it is
usually very wise to change only one thing at a time, test
it and then move on to the next item only once you're satisfied
with the first change.
Coming from Grand Prix Legends, I like to get a few
things sorted first. And they are not aero-related!
Toe: Negative toe means that the right front wheel
points slightly to the right and the left one slightly to
the left when the steering wheel in the neutral position.
Positive toe means that the front wheels point towards another.
I like a bit of negative toe which will help during turn-in.
Most setups are not too far off here. The default setup toe
is set at - 0.35 which I'll keep for now.
Brake
Balance: With the brake balance far to the front, you
get longer braking distances but a more stable car under braking.
Usually I have to move this quite a bit to the back. The default
setup is at 62:38 (!) so I'll move the balance to the rear
to something like 38:62.
Anti roll-bars: Anti roll-bars prevent sideways chassis
motion when the car changes direction. If the roll bars are
too soft, the chassis will roll towards the right if you turned
the wheel left and to the left if you turned the wheel to
the right.
This can become a problem if the rolling is not controlled.
Imagine a left-right section, where the chassis will first
roll to the right as you take the left part of the section,
but then it will keep rolling to the right, even when you
want to turn the car through the right hand part of the section.
In this instance the chassis will not have finished rolling
to one side, before it is required that it should start rolling
towards the other side.
If the bars are too stiff, we loose driveability, so a happy
compromise must be reached.
I like doing some changes with the anti roll-bars as most
setups that I've seen favor quite stiff roll-bars at the front,
softer at the back. I tend to like them closer together, thus
resulting in the chassis to be more towards neutral or oversteery
handling, rather than understeery.
I'll lower the front roll bar a bit which will allow a bit
more sideways motion in the chassis when cornering and this
gives me more feel in terms of when the front starts loosing
it's grip.
At the rear I stiffen the bars a bit, which will make the
rear of the car more unstable, especially under acceleration.
I'm hoping this will help in rotating the car out of corners
like Prost; the crucial right hander before the start / finish
straight, but really exiting most corners.
The rotation should be controllable under braking and acceleration
though. Too much rotation will spin you out.
So, I'll change from the 220:70 in the default setup to 200:140.
Finally the steering ratio. I like to use as little
steering input as I can get away with. This means I will have
to turn the steering wheel less when turning the car.
It goes from 14 to 15 degrees. Caution must be advised though:
reducing the steering input needed to turn the wheels also
makes the car more twitchy and going too far with this setting
can very well lead to the car becoming undriveable.
Note that the default setup will generate a lot of radio calls
from your pits concerning engine overheating. If you change
the radiator size from 2 to 3, you'll hear less about that
on the radio. Another benefit is that you can rev the engine
a lot more without fear of blowing the engine.
Back on Track
It's time to head back onto the track
to see if the changes work as I think they should. The most
noticeable changes are the brake-balance and the steering
ratio. Both helped me a lot to feel more comfortable when
pointing the car for the corners. I was a bit surprised that
I could actually get away with such a horrendously big change
in the brake balance. Merely changing it to 50:50 didn't quite
produce the result I wished for, so I went for the extreme.
I'll probably pay for it if it rains.

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