I just finished the pit's ventilation system and thought it was time to resurrect this thread with some new pics.

I found a couple of aircraft vents mis-listed on eBay, for cheap. I replaced the gaskets and felt washers (which were rotted), cleaned up the inner iris ring, and re-painted them.
Then, riveted them to a couple of steel plates and mounted them to the front of the pit's frame.

The fan is a 10" AC fan in a MDF enclosure, with PVC fittings and 2" hose running back to the vents.
The whole thing sits underneath the monitor deck, on the front electronics cabinet.



SIDE VIEW


FRONT VIEW


CLOSE-UP


ORIGINAL VENTS

Looking good

what fresnel were you using in your prior post? I recently acquired a larger monitor and a longer focal length lens than what I have might be beneficial.

Wow! Very impressive. Can I come over and play?

It was a Lumenlab 650mm Pro, found in their DIY/Optics section here .
Although, be aware that it is not cut for a 4:3 aspect ratio (it's more square), so you will need to carefully cut it down to size yourself.


Sure, just no sleep-overs! (That's a little too Neverland Ranch, for me. )

Vents? Bloody hell. Vents! Any more modifications and it will be capable of taking flight

A minor update....

My original throttle quad had a continuous label, for the markings on the side plates.
I never really liked it much. It worked... but it looked a little too cheesy.





So, I decided to make some metal replacements.
I cut down some thin galv sheet metal, rolled it and formed on a scrap piece of MDF, painted it black, and used smaller labels for the markings.
I also drilled for some small rivets, to help hold it on and define the zones.





I"m much happier, with this result!

A bigger update....

I just finished the MISC panel, too. (If you look at earlier pics, it's the big gray block, on the left side.)

All the functions of the software have already been assigned to existing panels. All that was left was to bring power into the pit.
I needed a panel to control the new ventilation system, the cockpit's interior lights, and bring AC in for the MFDs and the indicator's power supplies.

note: I used banana jacks and plugs, for the connections this time.
One, because I felt more comfortable with a heavier connector for 110vac. Two, because I had a bunch of new ones laying around already.


FRONT VIEW




SIDE VIEW




BACK VIEW




INSTALLED




That's all for now.

Grizz

A couple (or three) questions if you can spare the time please...

1) What are the panels made from, are they machined and how much do they cost?
2) What do you use for labelling them?
3) What do you use to control the throttle - as in EECH it is advanced by the < and > keys. 4 presses for power up and 5 presses with the CTRL key to power down?

Many thanks

Always!


The top plates are 3/8" MDF, the back plates are .094" FR-4 (double clad), and the rear I/O plates are made of aluminum sheet metal.
I really can't say how much they cost, per panel, because I bought everything in bulk some time ago. The MDF I bought in a full 4' x 8' sheet and the FR-4 in 2' x 2' sheets. You may have to special order the MDF (as I did) because local lumber dealers usually only carry 1/4" and 1/2" in stock. The FR-4 I found on ebay. The sheet metal scraps I just have laying around, from other projects, but I would bet I ordered it from McMaster-Carr originally. (As I do most of my raw materials.)

The reason all my panels use FR-4, is because I started making my panels, with the MFDs first. I used surface-mounted tact switches and soldered them directly to the backplates, which were custom etched circuit boards that I made. So, for consistency I kept using it....even though all the other panels have all the copper etched off.

As for machining... The backplates were hand cut using a band saw. The drilling of both top and bottom plates were mostly done on a small drill press. (Although, all of them could have been hand drilled.) The top plates were cut out using an automated router that I have at work. It just so happened we picked it up, at the same time I started working on the panels. I needed to learn how to program it and what better way, right?!?! Although, they too could have been cut out by more "manual" means.

After sanding, everything got two coats of primer and about 4 coats of flat black.



Well, my method is not the best and would probably be frowned on by master builders (like Gene Buckle) who have laser etchers at their disposal and go for the whole back-lighting thing. I use a P-Touch labeler, with white-on-black label cartridges. (Just choose the font size, type it in, and hit the print button!) Then, I cut away the excess label with an X-acto knife and stick them on. They are probably not going to be the longest lasting, or the most realistic solution but they are alot easier. And since they are vinyl they do last longer than labels you would do on a regular printer. Besides, if a label ever gets messed up I'll just make another one. (They're also alot easier to deal with, if you ever change your mind.)

The white lines that seperate the sub-systems is 1/4" automotive pin stripping. (Available at most auto parts stores.)



I use a Hagstrom KEAD6 to control it. It's designed to turn pot signals into key strokes. (Perfect for EECH which has the throttles mapped to keys, instead of axes.) The configuration software also allows for setting up multiple zones and outputting different keys in different directions. Each of my throttle arms is connected to a double pole (stereo) slide pot. Then, all 4 outputs (left up, left down, right up, and right down) are connected to 4 of the 6 inputs, on the KEAD6.

I hope that helps!

That does help thanks.



I have Leo's BU0386 which I have finally finished wiring up (apart from the blocking diodes).

and

(More pics on my Sim pit Flickr page )

That has the ability to add up to 8 pot controls as well. I will have to have a look see if there is any software (i.e. Joy2Key etc) that can allocate zones in the same way the KEAD6 does...

Cheers

I am going to give GlovePIE and AutoHotkey a go to see if they do the trick for the throttle zones...

I hope AutoHotkey does the trick, as I will possibly be using this to do the BU0386 joystick button > keyboard mapping!

Cheers

Looking good!

Keep us posted.

Wow Some Very Impressive Work and Dedication to Building these Pits. I have Built for me the Best Solution for Now I Built a Virtual Pit I couldn't go with just 1 pit as I fly several Sims w/EECH being the Latest.

I will post Some Pics and a Vid I made with TAW. I also Made a Vid With FRAPS and EE2 But you cant see the Screen as it is Decent sized one. I am Already of thinking of going Bigger but for now it will do.

I also Bought a Marantz 4001 Reciever I use as a Pre/Pro and Creatives AV Cable Hookup from my Sound card to the Pre/Outs. I als Bought 4 SHS Audio 100Watt Powered Speakers. (IF I had to do it again I would of just got the Passive Speakers) But these work OK just a lil bit of Amp Hum when things are quiet and it is turned up loud.

I also Built a new Computer with some Older but new Parts except the CPU that was used. Sys SPecs:

Intel PIV 3.8GHZ HT CPU
Asus P5n32-E SLI Mobo
Audigy 2 ZS from old sys used but working Flawlessly
BFG GeForce 7950GT OC 256mb Vid Card 94.24 Drivers
OCZ 2GB Memory SLI Ready
Antec TruePower 550watt SLI Ready

I was going to go SLI but Still NOT sure if it will work in 3D Stereo with the 7950 GT Vid Card?? I know it works with the 6800 but NOT sure About the 7950?? Anyone know for sure??

I got inspired for this Years ago and Always wanted to get a BIG Screen. Well I had seen a link to this website http://www.3dflightsim.com/ I just had to get One.

Well After Alot of Searches and Reading I bought a Sharp XR10XL Projector and Built a 45" 4:3 Screen. I also game in 3D with Edimensionals 3D Glasses, Heck I even built a Retro Computer for this Project to be 3D Compatible. I see that DickDasturdly Also Games in 3D with a Projector Cool I thought I was the Only one well we are Few in Numbers but 3d Gaming is the #%&*$#. EECH in 3D with the Big Screen Sometimes I feel like I am In a Real Military Sim ulator it is Very Immersive Especially with the Speakers I bought.

Well without Further ado here are Some Pics and the Vid. I still need to get the Screen and Projector Mounted and I since Fixed the Screen geometry.


















Here is the Vid of TAW a F22 Sim from DiD:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubVIwGGx0io



EDIT: I can make a EECH/EE2 Vid in Anaglyph if anyone is interested?? or just a regular Vid of EECH in Action??

Done some more work on the panels...

and

And all 4 together...



Link to simpit photo set on Flickr...

Cheers

I've considered it on and off, are the 3d glasses really that good? I've seen mixed reviews depending on game Sounds like it would be quite the ticket with the homemade projector.

Sweeeeeeet!
That's some nice work bro!!!
(It's nice to see another helo quad, too!)

Thanks Griz - got some way to go before it's as good as your pit though...

Cheers

Update to the pit pics...



Flickr Simpit pics

When the Lighting and Jettison panels are finished that will just leave the DEK (Data Entry Keyboard) to be built. Not sure how I'm going to do that one - might just end up using a nano keyboard from Maplin's...

MFDs are still giving me grief though - had 2 quotes £400 and £250 ($800 and $500)! Bit out of my price range!

Cheers

Time for a small update....

I finished mounting the right side panel and in doing so, I altered the build again. (An eventuality, when you design as you go. )
I've been wrestling with how to simplify entering and exiting the pit. If I were to stay true to the Comanche, I would have to climb through the left side window. There are a few issues with that.
- First, most of my custom built panels are on the left side and the thought of climbing over them every time was not comforting.
- Second, the space that my pit occupies is better suited for a right side entry.
- Lastly, after one knee surgery (and one on the way!), the idea of climbing sent me running for the Naproxen!

So, I decided to hinge the right side panel.
(Eventually, the exterior shell will also be hinged but seperately so that when someone besides me is flying I can still help them fly.)

Here's what I came up with.




Here it is closed. It doesn't have the outer skin on yet, so you can see the cable latch.




Here is a close-up of the hinge. The hinge is stock aluminum piano hinge but to give it a smoother travel I disassembled it, filed down the interlacing section a bit, and installed delrin washers. I also put in a ring, at the top of the pin, for future disassembly. The threaded rod arms, behind and inboard of the hinge, not only help to stabilize the panel but allow me to tilt and level it.




Here is a close-up of the cable latch assy.
The rubber bumper helps to cushion the blow, when closing it, and allows me to adjust out any slop, in the pin latch.

I just noticed Beta Innovations is closed. Sad.

http://www.betainnovations.com/